Overview
Nathalie Lorson
The nose behind Yves Saint Laurent's Black Opium
- Nationality
- French
- Born
- Grasse, France
- Training
- Roure perfumery school (Grasse)
- House
- dsm-firmenich
- 33In database
- 13Houses
- 3Recognition
- 10.00Top rated
Biography
Nathalie Lorson grew up in Grasse, the French town synonymous with perfumery, where her father worked as a chemist at the fragrance house Roure. That early exposure to the family business pulled her toward the craft, and she trained at the Roure perfumery school before starting her professional career.
She joined IFF as a junior perfumer in 1987, spending over a decade building a portfolio there before Firmenich recruited her in 2000. She has remained at Firmenich (now dsm-firmenich) ever since, and in December 2016 the house named her one of its Master Perfumers, an internal circle that numbers only a handful of noses at any time.
Lorson's best-known creation is Yves Saint Laurent's Black Opium (2014), composed with a team of collaborators around a signature coffee-and-vanilla accord that became one of the decade's biggest fragrance launches; the scent earned her Fragrance Foundation honors and a Perfumer of the Year title from French trade press in 2015. Across a career she describes as prolific — she has put her name to well over a hundred fragrances — she has worked across mass and prestige fine fragrance for houses including Lalique, Gucci, Givenchy, Dolce & Gabbana, Chopard, Jil Sander, Le Labo, Amouage and Essential Parfums, alongside celebrity scents for figures such as Dita Von Teese and Lady Gaga.
In interviews she comes across as press-shy relative to her output, describing herself as a 'gold digger' sifting through raw materials for the rare 'nugget' worth building a fragrance around, and framing her job as an act of generosity aimed at moving the person wearing the scent rather than expressing herself.
Signature works
6 of 33Notes & accords
- rose (centifolia)
- musk
- vetiver
- vanilla
- sandalwood
- orange blossom
Milestones
- 2015Fragrance of the Year (France, Italy, England) — Black Opium, Fragrance Foundation awards
- 2015Perfumer of the Year, Cosmétique Mag (France)
- 2016Master Perfumer, Firmenich
Every fragrance by Nathalie33
Gentleman Réserve Privée
Givenchy9.2719 collectorsAnother 13
Le Labo9.0711 collectorsEncre Noire
Lalique10.006 collectorsEncre Noire Sport
Lalique7.506 collectorsEncre Noire à L'Extrême
Lalique9.005 collectorsFor Men Intense
Bentley4 collectorsBlack Opium
Yves Saint Laurent8.003 collectorsLegend Spirit
Montblanc7.963 collectorsMeliora
Parfums de Marly3 collectorsParadoxe
Prada3 collectorsParadoxe Intense
Prada3 collectorsFleur Majesty Rose Royale 31
Kayali7.702 collectorsGentleman Eau de Parfum
Givenchy6.002 collectorsOxford Row
Michael Malul2 collectorsSpicebomb Night Vision Eau de Toilette
Viktor&Rolf2 collectorsXuxú
House of Bō8.002 collectorsAlien Goddess Supra Florale
Mugler1 collectorBlack Opium Le Parfum
Yves Saint Laurent1 collectorFreedom Musk Bouquet 27
Kayali7.201 collectorFusion d'Issey
Issey Miyake1 collectorLa Cordée - A la cime du cyprès
Moncler1 collectorLilac Love
Amouage9.501 collectorMusk Bouquet | 27
Kayali1 collectorBlossom Love
AmouageIn the catalogBracken Woman
AmouageIn the catalogI Will
Giorgio ArmaniIn the catalogL'Innocence de l'Air Parfum
ValentinoIn the catalogLine 618
AmouageIn the catalogLove Tuberose
AmouageIn the catalogMUD
BorntostandoutIn the catalogMyths Woman
AmouageIn the catalogOpus IX
AmouageIn the catalogSedbury
Parfums de MarlyIn the catalog