Overview
Nathalie Lorson
The nose behind Yves Saint Laurent's Black Opium
- Nationality
- French
- Born
- Grasse, France
- Training
- Roure perfumery school (Grasse)
- House
- dsm-firmenich
- 27In database
- 13Houses
- 3Recognition
- 10.0Top rated
Biography
Nathalie Lorson grew up in Grasse, the French town synonymous with perfumery, where her father worked as a chemist at the fragrance house Roure. That early exposure to the family business pulled her toward the craft, and she trained at the Roure perfumery school before starting her professional career.
She joined IFF as a junior perfumer in 1987, spending over a decade building a portfolio there before Firmenich recruited her in 2000. She has remained at Firmenich (now dsm-firmenich) ever since, and in December 2016 the house named her one of its Master Perfumers, an internal circle that numbers only a handful of noses at any time.
Lorson's best-known creation is Yves Saint Laurent's Black Opium (2014), composed with a team of collaborators around a signature coffee-and-vanilla accord that became one of the decade's biggest fragrance launches; the scent earned her Fragrance Foundation honors and a Perfumer of the Year title from French trade press in 2015. Across a career she describes as prolific — she has put her name to well over a hundred fragrances — she has worked across mass and prestige fine fragrance for houses including Lalique, Gucci, Givenchy, Dolce & Gabbana, Chopard, Jil Sander, Le Labo, Amouage and Essential Parfums, alongside celebrity scents for figures such as Dita Von Teese and Lady Gaga.
In interviews she comes across as press-shy relative to her output, describing herself as a 'gold digger' sifting through raw materials for the rare 'nugget' worth building a fragrance around, and framing her job as an act of generosity aimed at moving the person wearing the scent rather than expressing herself.
Signature works
6 of 27Notes & accords
- rose (centifolia)
- musk
- vetiver
- vanilla
- sandalwood
- orange blossom
Milestones
- 2015Fragrance of the Year (France, Italy, England) — Black Opium, Fragrance Foundation awards
- 2015Perfumer of the Year, Cosmétique Mag (France)
- 2016Master Perfumer, Firmenich
Every fragrance by Nathalie27
Gentleman Eau de Parfum Reserve Privée
Givenchy9.310 collectorsAnOther 13
Le Labo9.95 collectorsEncre Noire Sport
Lalique7.53 collectorsEncre Noire à L'Extrême
Lalique9.03 collectorsMeliora
Parfums de Marly3 collectorsBentley for Men Intense
Bentley2 collectorsEncre Noire (Eau de Toilette)
Lalique10.02 collectorsGentleman Eau de Parfum
Givenchy6.02 collectorsAnOther 13 (Eau de Parfum)
Le Labo1 collectorBlack Opium
Yves Saint Laurent8.01 collectorBlack Opium Le Parfum
Yves Saint Laurent1 collectorFusion d'Issey
Issey Miyake1 collectorGentleman Givenchy Réserve Privée
Givenchy1 collectorMusk Bouquet | 27
Kayali1 collectorOxford Row
Michael Malul1 collectorParadoxe
Prada1 collectorParadoxe Intense
Prada1 collectorSpicebomb Night Vision Eau de Toilette
Viktor&Rolf1 collectorAlien Goddess Intense
MuglerIn the catalogAlien Goddess Supra Florale
MuglerIn the catalog- B
Bracken Woman
AmouageIn the catalog Freedom Musk Bouquet 27
KayaliIn the catalogLegend Spirit
MontblancIn the catalogLine 618
AmouageIn the catalog- L
Love Tuberose
AmouageIn the catalog - M
Myths Woman
AmouageIn the catalog Sedbury
Parfums de MarlyIn the catalog